A long-standing debate regarding the management of climbing in wilderness areas is approaching a resolution. In June 2026, land-management agencies, including the US Forest Service and the Department of Interior, released draft guidance on the use of permanent anchors in wilderness areas, following the enactment of the 2025 Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act. Erik Murdock, deputy director at the Access Fund, stated that the new guidance helps secure climbers' access to these areas, although some wilderness advocates argue that it does not adequately protect the intentions of the Wilderness Act, which generally prohibits permanent infrastructure.
Climbers often use protective devices to secure their ropes while scaling rock walls, with some opting for removable gear and others using fixed anchors, such as bolts drilled into the rock. The proposed rules vary by agency, with the National Park Service requiring special-use permits for new bolts, while the Bureau of Land Management allows some bolts without prior authorization. The Forest Service is directing local offices to collaborate with climbers to develop management plans.
Concerns have been raised that the new guidance could lead to increased climbing activity in protected areas, especially as some Forest Service offices have lost staff due to budget cuts. Dana Johnson from Wilderness Watch noted that this could further restrict wildlife habitats. Additionally, some Biden administration officials had previously proposed a national directive to prohibit new fixed anchors in wilderness areas, but this was reversed by Congress with the PARC Act.
Zach Lentsch, a mountain guide, emphasized that the issue extends beyond climbing, as other recreational activities also contribute to overcrowding in wilderness areas. He suggested that agencies should implement permit systems and other measures to manage overall usage effectively. The public comment period for the Forest Service proposal ended on July 20, with other agencies' comment periods concluding on August 14.