In Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, demand for traditional silver nagras has declined due to rising silver prices. Azhar Hussain, a 55-year-old craftsman, has seen a significant drop in orders for the decorative footwear he has made for decades. The workshop is located near Chowk Bazaar, a popular market known for wedding shopping. Hussain has been crafting nagras, a type of silver slip-on shoe, for over 30 years. The process involves cutting silver sheets, engraving designs, and assembling the shoes, a tradition that dates back to the 1600s.
Silver nagras were once a staple of Nawabi attire but have become a wedding tradition for many families in Lucknow. Nawab Masud Abdullah, a descendant of Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah, noted that these shoes symbolize culture and heritage. Over the years, the shoes transitioned from daily wear for the Nawabs to a cherished item for brides.
Hussain's family has been in the nagra-making business since the early 1900s, typically producing about 10 pairs a month, priced between $105 and $230. However, the rise in silver prices has drastically affected sales. Prices for silver in India fluctuated between $725 and $830 per kilogram in 2023, rising to around $985 in 2024, and briefly reaching $4,670 amid geopolitical tensions. Currently, prices hover around $2,600 per kilogram, significantly higher than in previous years.
Dr. Salahuddin Ayyub, an economist, explained that geopolitical conflicts have led to increased demand for precious metals, driving prices up. This has particularly affected India, where silver is integral to weddings and cultural traditions. As prices rise, many families are opting for cheaper alternatives, impacting artisans and craftsmen reliant on the silver industry.
India's heavy reliance on imported silver means that rising prices also lead to increased import duties, further driving up costs for consumers. In May, India more than doubled its import taxes on silver, resulting in an 87% drop in silver imports.
The financial strain of high silver prices is evident among brides in Lucknow. Uzma Siddique, who is set to marry in December, expressed her disappointment at the soaring prices, which have forced her to cut back on other wedding expenses to afford nagras. Her friend, Safiya Khan, noted that her budget does not allow for silver nagras, marking a potential end to the tradition in her family.
Naseem Jahan, a resident in her seventies, shared her emotional connection to her silver nagras, which she received for her wedding in 1972. She fears that the tradition may not continue due to rising costs. In an effort to preserve the tradition, she plans to gift her nagras to her granddaughter.
As demand for silver nagras declines, artisans like Jabbar Hussain face an uncertain future in their craft, raising concerns about the survival of this traditional art form in Lucknow.